With the van through the Oderbruch - a road trip in Brandenburg.By Elisa | On 13. Juni 2019 take an adVANture · On June 13, 2019
[Advertising] Oderbruch, Brandenburg. "Gö-göck." And then again: "Gö-göck." I try to find out from which direction the noise comes, stay briefly in the middle of the meadow and breathe flat and noiseless. "Gö-göck." The wild grasses reach far above my knees and I have to be careful that I do not get too far into the marshy bank of the pool in the approaching darkness. Slowly I stumble forward until it's a few feet in front of me rustling loud, a gray outline under loud "Gö-göck. Gö-göck. "And leaves me in the dusk. The pheasant and me, we both probably did not expect each other. I still enjoy the red of the setting sun on the edge of the Oder, before I walk back to the bus and make it comfortable in bed soon.
Note: The described trip and the article developed in cooperation with the tourist board Brandenburg and the lake district Oder-Spree . My experiences and opinions about this road trip and the experiences remain unaffected.
A road trip through Brandenburg is always characterized by long avenues, vast fields, small and large lakes, peace and solitude. In the Oderbruch then joins the Oder, with an unobstructed view of Poland. Together with my bus, I spent some nice days in pure idyll, with highlights and sights that I would like to tell you today.
The Oderbruch is an area in the Lakeland Oder-Spree, located directly on the German-Polish border, and is one of those beautiful spots earth, which can be found everywhere in Brandenburg. Fox and hare, pheasant and roe deer, burbot and various other animals say "good night" - and also "good morning". Country idyll meets it pretty much to the point, because you do not have to run after it, but just enjoy it. The distance to Berlin is just 60km and with 20km in width and 60km in length you should be careful that you do not just pass by.
Sometimes it feels like a journey into the past. Hectic modernity is sought in vain, as well as continuous mobile phone reception - a dream, packed in small villages and flowering spring meadows.
Let me digress briefly to the history of the area, before I provide you with a lot of travel tips in words and pictures. Until the 18th century, the Oderbruch was marshy, moorastig, a flood area and uninhabited. Only the "Old Fritz", Frederick the Great, ordered the straightening of the river and the drainage and from this time began the colonization and management of the delta.
Memorials, such as the "Seelower Heights" , reminisce in the course of history of World War II events, as the area was hit hard shortly before the end of the war.
Rarely does a vehicle come to meet me. Instead, I spend many miles lonely on small roads and switch more often down a gear than high. I behave probably most of the time like a classic Sunday driver, driving too slowly and uncontrollably reducing the speed, just just on all other days this week in late May. But it does not bother anyone - who cares?
On the avenues, the speed is throttled via shield to a maximum of 80 km / h. As the sun glitters through the leaves, I look for possible sights, natural or man-made, worth visiting. There is no real plan for my journey, just a rough direction, so I just turn somewhere several times. Most of the time I end up on dirt roads that end in dead ends, but often I also find little treasures.
Therefore, a clear recommendation from me: Just go on it. Take detours and not always the direct route, turn around, if you think you missed an exciting downhill. There are roads in the Oderbruch in every condition and maybe at the end you will find a little gem that you can talk about for a long time. So I have discovered beautiful views along the Oder and the one or the other alley with historic cobblestones, which let the bus vibrate while driving over.
I like places with flair and / or nice view. A lot. Sometimes I research for hours, take detours or long journeys in purchase. As the Oderbruch is not very big, luckily I was spared the latter.
For umme you can stand in Lebus just a stone's throw from the Oder. The paved course at Anglerheim offers no equipment, but there are in the immediate vicinity of the campfire sites, seating and beautiful footpaths along the river. Do not miss the sunrise and sunset there. Restaurants are within walking distance, food discounters are on the outskirts.
The Seecamp am Oderbruch in Zeschdorf on the Hohenjesarscher See offers classic camping, including a small restaurant and lake view.
Finally, I would like to tell you a treat, an alternative to the campsite and only suitable for small campers or your own tent. The Naturerlebnishof Uferloos in Kienitz rents mainly circus cars and apartments, is located just behind the dike and exudes a charm in which you would like to drown and want to stay a long time. Steffi and Norbert have developed a concept to bring nature closer to nature, from outdoor breakfast in the morning to a campfire after sunset. Upon individual request you can park your campervan in the meadow in front of it and use all sustainable amenities of the farm according to the price list - or simply rent one in the circus car.
If you like nature, you will love the Oderbruch. Although it lacks a lot of superlatives here, that's exactly what makes the area so special. Here you advertise not with the highest (which would be a challenge at the few meters above sea level) or the fastest, here you will find no frills and no Schnack, but a lot of down to earth. There is the signpost to the beautiful view just "beautiful view" and on the to the thick oak ... you guessed it ... "thick oak".
Those who want to stretch their legs from the road trip park their car in Reitwein and make their way through the Reitwein spur , a wooded ridge with a beautiful view and thick oak. In addition to an almost fairytale forest you will find history, literature and in the village itself, some culture. But more on that later.
The Oder in turn is ideal for canoe trips of various lengths. I borrowed a kayak from the Naturerlebnishof Uferloos and paddled into an old arm of the river on the Polish side. No soul showed itself to me in time and nature and tranquility left much room for idleness and non-thinking. The water in all its form has always been one of my great passions and whoever it is still, will find it here in the Oderbruch in the Lakeland Oder-Spree quickly. The canoe tourism grows gently and now offers a small infrastructure in the form of resting and bivouac places.
Well, and otherwise? In the Oderbruch one should listen to the sounds of nature. Here you will find the pheasant's call, the twittering of countless other birds and the rustling of the wind in the foliage of the trees. The rare Adonis flower blooms in spring on the slopes of the Oderufer around Lebus, the Kietzer lake is a central part of the European bird sanctuary Altfriedländer pond and lake district. A dream not only for ornithologists.
Alternative or classic, there are no limits to diversity here. There is StreetArt in a small village, famous 19th century architects along the wayside, proud owners and creative concepts. And that just barely 1.000qkm. So if you want to give nature man a break and give some input to the cultural man, then the following lines are exactly the right thing for you.
We start in Neulietzegöricke , a village that I was able to pronounce error-free only the fourth time. Approximately 220 inhabitants are divided here on a building ensemble, which stands as the oldest colonial village in Oderbruch from 1753 under monument protection. Half-timbered house on half-timbered house, the sight of the two streets is certainly something for Architekturmuffel. They are buildings with soul, where every window and every beam could tell a story. While I take photos of the most distinctive courtyard of the village, the owners come to meet me on the sidewalk and invite me to take a look behind the large wooden gate. On four sides, the green meadow with the old oak of stables and barns is enclosed, a dovecote as an eye-catcher stands sideways and it follows over several minutes distributed a lot of enthusiasm on my part.
Since you are already in the area, then you can just make a detour in the direction of Zollbrücke, to the theater on the edge . Handmade, creative and individual, the concept is even known as far as Berlin.
You should not miss the cultural harbor in Groß Neuendorf . The monument ensemble is located directly on the Oder and is a sight that you would not have expected somehow. With an old loading tower, with train wagons, a swing in the sky, restaurants, accommodation, a bizarre world clock and discovery possibilities in the immediate vicinity (for example, an old weathered Jewish cemetery).
We are not finished with the architectural sights in Oderbruch. You can combine your trip to Reitwein with a visit to a transformer station, the Trafo.3 , a project that wants to show art where nobody suspects it - on the roadside.
And now there is another important artist and architect of classicism and historicism. Karl Friedrich Schinkel is one of the most important master builders of the two epochs and has played a key role in shaping it. In the inconspicuous Bärwinkel is the first major work of the architect, a building complex consisting of whey house and two outbuildings. Less than 3km away, the Schinkel Church in Schoenberg Schinkel is in Neuhardenberg, and he was also responsible for the redesign of the neighboring castle . In turn, Hermann Fürst von Pückler is responsible for the castle park. Reserve a picnic in the park and enjoy nature and views under trees.
I love cake. It's a meal that you consciously take time to enjoy and that has nothing to do with habitual feeding. That's why I start with a recommendation that revolves around the sweet pastry. Martina runs the colonist coffee in Neulietzegöricke (opening hours: Friday to Sunday from 13.00 to 18.00 clock) for several years and bakes all the cakes directly in the dining room itself. No sooner have you opened the door, you get from a scent of crumb cake, strawberries, Rhubarb and coffee wrapped and spoiled for choice between various delicacies. Incidentally, the fresh fruit comes from gardens in the village.
In the Café Blue Onion (opening hours: daily from 12.00 to 18.00 clock) in Bad Freienwalde the Eierlikörtorte should be the highlight. They are mostly but only on public holidays and on weekends and so I had to content myself with eggnog without cake, but with waffle.
Let us stay in Bad Freienwalde for a short time and drop by at Oderbruchware (opening hours: daily from 10 am to 5 pm, closed on Wednesday) . Here you can buy the best of Oderbruch and Brandenburg, regionally and seasonally. The beautiful outdoor area invites you to sit for a long time, the meals to enjoy and the alternative flair for philosophizing.
And now follows a small list of locations that were recommended to me, but I have not visited because of lack of time: The restaurant Oderblick in Lebus is a bit inconspicuous, but should have a very good regional cuisine. In the Ziegenhof-Zollbrücke there is everything that the goat lover desires, ecological and biological (you can probably spend the night there with the camper). In the farm shop of the milk sheep farm Pimpinelle everything is offered by the sheep and otherwise you will find in passing small farm shops, where it pays to stop.
Theodor Fontane, one of the most important writers of German realism, is inseparable from Brandenburg. In 2019, he would have become a proud 200 years old and in some places in the Oderbruch you will find references to him, his family and his works.
In his novel "Before the storm" he lets the farmers pull out of the Oderbruch along the Frankfurter Straße, an old trade route that leads today as a distinctive sunken path through the Reitweiner Sporn. In Letschin he helped his father out as a pharmacist, who in turn lived until his death in ship mill near Bad Freienwalde and is buried in the neighboring village.
On the way with your own campervan or a rented bulli from Berlin or Dresden you can enjoy the freedom during a holiday in the Oderbruch and maybe even discover some wilderness. And the people? Yes, they involved me in many nice conversations and I was able to learn some exciting stories about the country and its people. What are you waiting for?