Stage hiking in the Black Forest - the lakeside around Baiersbronn.By Elisa | On 30. August 2019 take an adVANture · On August 30, 2019
[Advertising] Seensteig, Baiersbronn, Baden-Württemberg. The first time that I consciously perceived the Black Forest as a possible goal of longing, was through an impressive nature documentary some time ago. At that time the camera directed the eye of the beholder to a harsh nature, dense coniferous forests, which were played by a fine morning mist. The sun glittered in the drops of water on the trees and only slowly did the wild life awake. It went on through almost impenetrable undergrowth, along small streams and lakes, up to the call of the capercaillie. And by the way, a deep calm voice told exciting stories about Germany's highest mountain range. Over the spruces and firs, over the national park and the two nature parks, over storms, Grinden and Hochmoore.
Disclosure: The described hike and the article were developed in cooperation with Baiersbonn Touristik . My experiences and impressions about this tour and the experiences remain unaffected.
Funny enough that the Black Forest is called Black Forest *, but you see the first thing a completely different color: namely, the green. And did you know that there are a few hundreds of different tones on earth? For example, we would have the may green or the lime green. Then the bright green or loden green. Beautiful green or shade green, spinach green or ... the forest green. Yes, the forest green is probably one of the most beautiful.
I was recently able to convince myself of this when hiking in the Black Forest on the lakeside around Baiersbronn. I have fueled energy, inhaled nature and had time for daydreaming. A nice tour through forest and meadow, with one of my favorite companion: the water. And that came in the form of rain, lakes, moor, morning dew and small streams. Paired with lots of forest whispers and other pine green, brown-green, ivy green, fern green, heather green, emperor green, ....
Seensteig Stage 1: From Baiersbronn to Mitteltal.
The sky is overcast as I make my way to the first leg around 09.00. I look forward to the following hours, more than a dozen kilometers and the dense forests through which the paths will lead. My first destination is the Sankenbachsee and to reach it, I walk comfortably, without haste and with a lot of peace and time. First on a gravel road, then on a natural forest road. The Sankenbach ripples me left and right times and thus does the rest for a successful start.
The Sankenbachsee lies in a cauldron from the last ice age. Almost 3,000 years ago, it almost completely ran out. It was not until the 1980s that the former moraine wall was rebuilt and the area returned to its original state. These and other information can be found as a knowledgeable hiker neatly noted on boards - but you can also just watch and enjoy. Since parallel to the trail leads up a forest road, the lake can also be easily reached by old and young.
Right on the opposite side waiting for the next delicacy, a designated natural monument. The Sankenbach waterfall falls narrow and two stages 40 meters in depth. Almost with alpine character, the path leads upwards over roots and stone steps, crosses the upper basin with the help of a wooden bridge and climbs a few meters up to the Wasserfallfall. The trees provide shade and if you want, you can stay here for a while.
Then it gets quiet. On forest roads and on the edge of Kniebis along, make small detours in the thickets in for variety. On the section to progress quickly and can catch up a little time, which you can later waste again with beautiful views unrestrained.
Shortly afterwards follows the prospect, which I have been waiting for a long time. An accessible platform overlooks the tops of the trees and beyond the edge of the Karwand. And not only gives the view of about 150 meters below lying Ellbachsee free, but also to the mountainous hinterland towards Mitteltal. Ellbachseeblick is the point at which it is worthwhile to stay. The tree and the forest as far as the eye can see and the feeling that you will be just a tiny green patch moving through trees. Green because it starts to rain and I get my neon green rain jacket out of my backpack.
The trail winds relatively steeply down to the left of the platform on the Karwand. Roots and wet stones draw my attention to the ground. For just a moment I look to the left and at that moment it grins at eye level. A laughing face, a tree stump with facial expressions. I grin back, trying to straighten my crooked nose, and then look back at my wandering feet and a sure kick. Past the Ellbachseehütte, to the shore of the lake of the same name.
Also the Ellbachsee is a Karsee, which developed during the last ice age. It is surrounded by a moor as an extensive natural monument and forms an independent biotope for many endangered animal and plant species. As the rain gets stronger and there are still a few kilometers to the finish, I do not stay long. Shortly thereafter you have the choice: either follow the classic route on the forest road or take the "adventure trail". Of course, I opt for the latter. Narrow, over many roots and small streams, it goes into the forest, sometimes along there, where never a sunbeam touches the ground. The ferns reach far above my head and I hear nothing except the rain and the wings of a frightened bird of prey. Wet, blissful and with muddy feet spits me the primitive path after a few hundred meters back on the paved forest road. Sure-footedness and sturdy footwear are a must.
For a short while I stop at the Ellbachtanne, a 270-year-old and 45-meter high silver fir, which has defied many a storm and probably has a lot to tell from her life. I throw the rain poncho over and run the last few kilometers to Mitteltal without a break.
⇒ Note: The so-called Seensteig package is a hiking package , in which you can book 6 hotel accommodation, matching the stages, and a corresponding luggage transport. Other services, such as free use of public transport, are included and allow, among other things, hiking with light luggage.
Seensteig Stage 3: From the Schliffkopf to the Mummelsee.
In bright sunshine and at over 1050 meters altitude my tour starts through parts of the Black Forest National Park. Up here, on the Schliffkopf, I see a kind of high moor with flowering heather, wild blueberries and many other small shrubs. The morning dew leaves the meadows glittering like diamonds and after a short time, various photos of fine water drops collect on my SD card. But since I want to go the approx. 3 km longer alternative route over Willis emperor variant, I have to hurry pretty soon.
For the alternative one crosses the Black Forest High Road, which makes me running more than running, because the area, a bit impractical, is just behind a bend.
Then follows pure loneliness. No human soul shows itself in the woods and I enjoy the scent of nature. The color green shines here again in a superior power and in all nuances, so I mentally get into raptures. Also the course of the way holds some surprises ready. Sometimes there are forest roads, then again natural paths, where you sometimes even have to scramble over fallen but secured trees.
For a lot of contrast and variety Mother Earth provides herself. There is the deep blue sky, there are birds and butterflies, yellow and red flowers, roots and stones, changing views. Even though it may lack superlatives, that's what my wandering heart desires. Here you can let your thoughts wander, like the squirrels jump from tree to tree and eventually get lost in deep green. A deep breath and it goes on with new energy.
The pass "Ruhestein" is the next intermediate destination. Unfortunately, I do not have the time to pay a visit to the National Park Center. Instead, the trail meanders along the ski slope and so does me. It goes steadily uphill and arrived at the top shows again one of these beautiful landscapes, which have inspired me already at the beginning of the grinding head. It is the Grinde, an almost tree-free wet heather, moorastig and home to various plant and animal species.
Shortly after the Eutinggrab, the mountainous terrain clears the view of the approximately 120 meters lower wild lake. The Karsee includes together with the Hornisgrinde, the highest mountain in the northern Black Forest, the nature reserve "Wilder See - Hornisgrinde" and is also partially Bannwald and in the area the oldest natural forest reserve in Baden-Württemberg. Bannwälder, these are forests in which the use of wood is omitted and nature is left to its own devices. I experience this and much more when passing by, as exciting information boards reveal their knowledge to all interested parties. If you want, you can go down to the Wildsee or stop off a bit later at the Darmstädter Hütte.
Through a little carelessness, I land a little later on one of the heavenly paths, which runs parallel below the lake. I think for a moment, if I will not continue on the forest path, as both paths meet again on the Seibelseckle. Luckily, I decide against it and take a connecting route, with which I get on the much nicer path from the lakeside.
The end of the third leg soon announces itself with much fanfare. The number of people is growing, as well as the sounds of cars from the Black Forest High Road. The Mummelsee is the object of many a craving and attracts a variety of people to its shores - including me. I will not stay long, because after the loneliness of the last few hours the hustle and bustle is a bit too much for me. The end of the stage is also my end on the lakeside, but, touched by the beauty of the woods, I will surely tackle the 5 stages as a whole again.
⇒ Note: The orientation on the lakeside is not difficult, the trails are very well marked and signposted. The Baiersbronn hiking guide can be obtained at the tourist information office or in the hiking information center in Baiersbronn and you can also buy a hiking map . If you want to navigate online, you can download Tourenguide - The App for Baiersbronn on your smartphone.
Hiking around Baisersbronn.
The Seensteig is a stage hiking trail that runs within 5 stages and 91km to and from Baiersbronn, connecting seven karst lakes. A quality path through forests, moors, over Grinden and past waterfalls.
By the way, if you are looking for walks around Baiersbronn, the Baiersbronn Hiking Heaven is 550 km away. There are gourmet trails, theme trails and adventure hikes, long tours, short, easy and difficult. As a prelude to my time, I hiked for a few hours along the gourmet trail "Satteleisteig" with a delicious snack in the saddle hut and a small dessert directly from nature. Although you can not reach easily accessible hotspots on your own, if you only go on for a few minutes, you only hear yourself and the natural trappings.
⇒ Note: Guided hikes, such as a culinary wild plant hike, are offered regularly. Registration options and information are available in the hiking information center or at the tourist office in the city.
Incidentally, the Black Forest is called Black Forest because it consists mainly of spruce trees and these conifers grow so densely and quickly that hardly any sunlight falls on the ground. The forest is especially dark there ... and also black.