Mountain whispers in the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena - at sunrise to the Grubigstein.By Elisa | On 8. August 2019 take an adVANture · On August 8, 2019
[Advertising] Tiroler Zugspitz Arena, Austria. The most beautiful stories are written by nature herself. And she also paints the most breathtaking pictures. Without a lot of bells and whistles, without big fanfare, because that definitely does not need them. Instead, she is simply there, modest and modest enough, and she listens to the viewer's admiration. Once again I was able to convince myself of this art and to express my silent enthusiasm in the face of the mountains in Tyrol. While the fine high fog clung to the trees and the sun fought over the Zugspitze.
Disclosure: The described hike and the article were created in cooperation with the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena. My experiences and impressions about this tour and the experiences remain unaffected.
Two days, one night, 1,180 vertical meters, 1,250 vertical meters, various Spezi and Radler, a curd strudel, an apple strudel, two spinach dumplings, temperatures of about 7 ° C to almost 30 ° C and 280 photos: This is the very short summary a hike from Lermoos, which led me through the Gartner valley to the Wolfratshauser hut and from there to sunrise on the Grubigstein. It gets more detailed in the next lines.
Through the Gartner valley to the Wolfratshauser hut.
For once, I am not alone on the road, instead the man accompanies me on this beautiful tour in the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena. We start in the morning in Untergarten and since we have plenty of time, we put one foot slowly in front of the other. As soon as we turn around the first bend of the forest road, a herd of cows is blocking our way. A small black calf curiously turns its head in our direction, next to us is a cow in the meadow and chews with relish on a bunch of grasses. The cowbells ring in time. It is this noise that I associate with every holiday in the mountains. First as a child and adolescents hiking with their parents and later when my work in southern Bavaria ended.
Due to the rains of the last days, we decide for the paved road and do not take the route along the small stream right under us. Only once we branch off briefly, over meadow and directly through the forest, which spits us some height further up with muddy shoes and cheerful again. After a short while and the last larger curve follows a long straight and the immediately gives the view of the mountain range in front of us. Gray and powerful, the flank of the Gartner Wall looms ahead of us and with each step forward it becomes even more powerful. We decide to let this view in the Gartner Alm still a little on us and ring in the weekend with cheese dumplings and cottage cheese strudel.
We are at about 1.400m, the massif towers 900m higher on average. In undulating layers nature shows what she has created in the last millions of years. The Alps are a fold mountain and each of these folds stands for a power that triggers deep admiration in me.
Occasionally cling to white snow fields on the north side and brave the high temperatures of recent weeks. We are fortunate in that clouds can provide shade and sunshine alternately and can handle the last climb without any problems. Immediately above the Gartner Alm, an ever-narrower path leads straight ahead, and soon, in many hairpin bends, steeply up the hill. Signs show the way, the orientation is not difficult. Shortly before the end ropes secure the way over a boulder field on the slope. Only a few steps follow the ridge, then we reach the Wolfratshauser hut at 1,763m and thus stage destination and overnight camp at the same time.
Summarized route description: Starting point Untergarten (alternatively Lermoos) - through the Gartner valley to the Gartner Alm (either on the forest road or directly below in the valley) - endpoint Wolfratshauser hut. In about 2 1 / 2h you put down 4.5km, 680hm ↑ and 10hm ↓ back. It is an easy hike up to the Gartner Alm, then it gets a bit more demanding because it is steeper and more exposed.
The Wolfratshauser hut.
Our camp is the Wolfratshauser hut , which we reach in the afternoon. Even before we move into our room, swap our sweaty tops for a fresh shirt and slip into the slipper shoes, we make ourselves comfortable on the terrace and enjoy the magnificent view. The view sweeps over the Ehrwalder basin to the massive Wetterstein mountains with the Zugspitze, which is now hidden behind a cloud layer. The mountains, in turn, have to share our attention with the now-served apple strudel, which is then consumed with many "Mhhh" and "Ohhh" s.
As it starts to rain in the evening, we make ourselves comfortable in one of the guest rooms. The drops of water crackle evenly against the window panes, which they will do later during the dinner, the nightcap and the bedtime.
The opening hours of the Wolfratshauser Hütte in the Lechtal Alps are summer and winter, depending on the weather from early June to mid-October and mid-December to mid-April. Bettina and Werner Blaßl offer, in addition to 16 room warehouses and 28 mattress warehouses, a seasonal Austrian cuisine using mainly local products, which can be enjoyed indoors and outdoors and always within sight of the Zugspitze.
At sunrise on the Grubigstein.
The alarm rings at 3.45am. We are alone in the 4-bed room so disturb no one as we make our way out in the dark. Our headlamps are the only source of light. Deep in the valley, we stubbornly see the clouds hanging over us, a sea of stars shines. For the ascent to the Grubigstein on 2.233m we decide above the Wolfratshauser hut for the time being for the red route. Here a sign shows the way and sends us over a forest road with gravel under the feet steadily uphill. At this time of day, I only work because body and mind are so far from being in harmony early in the morning. In this condition and after about an hour we reach the Grubighütte next to the Grubigsteinbahn.
From now on, there is no choice, only marked in black, it goes up to the top. And it does not take long until we all need concentration. The terrain is rocky, a bit slippery from the rain of the night, and in between we need at least one hand to coordinate the balance and balance of forces. You do not see a path anymore, but fortunately it is already beginning to dawn. And the combination of the first daylight and the light of the headlamps shows red dots or arrows, which were painted as a guide to the gray underground. So we shimmy through the avalanche barrier until we only have to cover a few meters above the grade. For the time being, we leave the secondary summit on the right and make ourselves comfortable packed at the summit cross of Grubigstein.
We watch the spectacle of nature for a while, in silence and in devotion. Down in the valley, the morning mist hangs like a white sea of cotton candy between the flanks of the mountains. Every minute we sit, the gray around us turns a blue and turns into the many different shades of nature. You do not even know where to look first, but the mountain world is currently in an unobstructed 360 ° -view. The Mieminger chain on the right, before us the Wettersteingebirge, in our back the way to the Gartner wall and left in the background the Ammergau Alps.
It does not take long and the sun rises diagonally below the Zugspitze. Its massif in turn towers over the surrounding valleys almost overpowering and lets one experience the power of the earth without a word. Pure fascination and mountain fun on my part.
Slowly growls the stomach and as it is too cold on the summit, we decide the descent. Back through the shed and past the Grubigstein summit house, we now take the black path down. Half way there is a snack and we take a last look at the red of the sunrise. Not much longer and the sun will shine brightly from the sky, because the weather forecast announces a hot summer day. The route proves to be not particularly difficult, even if a sign requires alpine experience. A little slippery, but if you choose the steps wisely, then you reach the intended destination without detours.
Summarized route description: Starting point Wolfratshauser hut - intermediate goal summit Grubigstein - endpoint Wolfratshauser hut. In about 1 1 / 2h you just put 2.0km and 500hm ↑ back (via the red route), on the way back and the black track we did not even need an hour to 1.7km. If you follow the red path to the summit house Grubigstein, then it is a relatively easy route, taking the black road, then it is a bit more difficult. Above the hut, it is demanding and you will need both hands shortly afterwards to move across the rocks. The path is not always recognizable as such, red markings indicate the direction through the avalanche barrier. Sure-footedness and sometimes also a head for heights are required.
From the Wolfratshauser hut to Lermoos.
With a delicious cappuccino we say goodbye to the Wolfratshauser hut and make our way back to the valley. Already, around 09.00 o'clock, the sun shines with all its strength and suggests that it will be a hot day. All the more I enjoy the thought that from now on only shady forest will follow.
Just below the hut begins the hiking trail. First, it leads along flowering meadows, but a few meters further down abruptly alternates sun with shadow and one dives into the morning coolness of the forest. The closer you get to the valley, the denser the green around you. I enjoy every step and finally take the time to do so consciously. There is the smell of the stone pine, for example, which I inhale every few minutes with a deep breath. Or the variety of flowers, which I am not only enthusiastic about, but also lots of bees and bumblebees of different sizes.
Every little detail is given attention. After all, it is only the sum of them that makes up the big picture, which inspires people in continuous looping and whose visit is like a pilgrimage. In search of rest, inspiration, one's own limits and yes, maybe also a spiritual enlightenment.
At the beginning we have forest and path completely for ourselves. He in turn meanders narrowly down the mountain, but soon more and more people are coming towards us. "Servus" and "hello God" it says there from radiant faces. Right next to the hiking trail is one of the more difficult freeride trails for mountain bikers in the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena and it is exciting to watch the boys and girls on the descent. It does not take long before we reach Lermoos, where we parked our bus overnight. The mountains from now on in the rearview mirror, leads the way back to the Allgäu. Hello and Baba, see you soon.
Summarized route description: Starting point Wolfratshauser hut - through the forest steadily downhill - terminus Lermoos Grubigsteinbahn. In about 2h you put back almost 4.0km and 740hm ↓. The trail is well signposted and easy to walk uphill but certainly exhausting as it goes up steadily.
Alternatives in the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena.
An alternative route I would like to betray you later. For experienced hikers, the route via the Gartner Wand (2,377m) is recommended . Here, however, sure-footedness, head for heights and alpine experience are absolutely necessary, as it is partly along the ridge, with exposed areas. For example, you can follow the signs over the Grubigstein and behind the summit cross, following your sunrise hike. Either it goes back the same way or down the Sommerbergjöchle in the Gartner valley.
And then there is another tip from my side, something that has been on my wish list for some time: the mountain fire in the Tyrolean Zugspitz Arena , which lights up the mountains every summer summer solstice. The origin goes back far to the times of the demons, when one wanted to drive away with the fires just these. Now it is a highlight, a combination of tradition and modernity.
By the way, the 17th stage of the Adlerweg, a 413km long long distance hiking trail through the whole of Tyrol, from which I have already hiked two stages in the past, runs in sight of the Grubigstein.